Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is perhaps the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and allotments throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre neighbourhood and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative re-establishing urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing nations, but has identified them all over the globe, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces preserve open space from development by establishing long-term, yielding farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the spokesperson.
Mystery Polish Grapes
Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy grapes from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was bred by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and Spain, Katy Grant is harvesting her rondo grapes from about fifty plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her family in 2018. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Vineyards and Natural Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are hard at work on the steep inclines of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, 60, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of vines slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can make intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can truly create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"When I tread the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the skins into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries add preservatives to eliminate the wild yeast and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her grapevines, has assembled his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to France. However it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on